- CRITICAL REVIEWS
- WINEMAKER NOTES
Jeb Dunnuck
Robert Parker Wine Advocate
Vinous
2023 Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion, Pessac-Leognan, France
This was a year of… ... Involvement. Humility. Responsiveness. Delicacy.
Autumn was slow to set in, with the first cold spells and little water. Fortunately, the days didn’t fail to shorten and the vines quietly entered the winter. A calm, cool and fairly dry winter.
Early mild weather in March. A few shivers at bud burst, then rain. Mild and humid. One, the other or both. It took exceptional presence on the part of the team of winegrowers to act with decisive precision and speed. For us, this is the only way to take care of our vines: to be there, to observe and to act to the nearest millimetre, minute by minute.
At the end of the summer, the vintage mapped out more clearly. Harvest conditions were fine, so we could be completely flexible in our choices to express the uniqueness of each of these little places that make up the wines of Les Carmes.
In the cellar, we went even further with infusion - submerged cap vinification. We have entered a new phase with the use of tailor-made tools, based on our experiments with extraction in recent vintages. As for ageing, the further we go, the more we are willing to abandon a set protocol in favour of a different approach for each wine, depending on its profile and progress. Choosing not to choose... in advance.
Embracing this complexity. We plan to let ourselves be surprised, to taste what the wines have to say to us, to bring them to the bottle with the right touch, for several more exciting months.
Full-bodied to tubular, the wines are now stretching out. Freshness and drinkability the watchwords. Explosive delicacy, mineral finesse, sappy, resinous atmosphere, notes of iris and violet, elderflower, black and tangy.
Harvest dates: 11 to 25 Sept. 2023
Whole bunches: 60%
Blend: 50% Cabernet Franc,
30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot
Analysis: 13.5% alc. vol. - pH 3.62
Ageing (in progress): 70% new barrels,
20% vats of 18hl, 10% amphoras.