RP
96
Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The 2006 Harlan Estate has turned out better than I originally predicted. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by classic aromas of creme de cassis, melted licorice, smoked meats, burning embers, and graphite. It has thrown off some of the tannic clout it displayed last year, revealing great balance. A candidate for “wine of the vintage,” this dense, full-bodied effort has 25+ years of life ahead of it. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2035.
This extraordinary estate, run by Bill Harlan, has never had either a shortage of ambition or patience. Harlan originally had his wines made elsewhere, but never found the resulting product up to his standards until his home vineyard, high on the western hills of the Oakville Corridor, hit an acceptable level of quality, which turned out to be in 1990. In October, I did a vertical tasting of every Harlan Estate vintage made (which I will report on at a future date), and one thing that was clear is just how extraordinary these wines are, and how well they are aging. Even in California’s lighter, more challenging years, Harlan turned out wines that anyone would be happy to own and consume. The newest offerings include two vintages of The Maiden essentially their second wine, and the flagship Harlan Estate fewer than 2,000 cases produced. Reviewed by Robert M. Parker, Jr., Issue date: December 2009. Drinking window: 2012 - 2035.
V
97
Vinous
Full medium ruby. Subdued but pure and vibrant nose offers black raspberry, minerals, licorice and truffle, all lifted by an ineffable perfume that carries through on the palate. Boasts terrific definiton and energy; following the group of Bond offerings from '06, this tasted like a wine from another vintage. Very intensely flavoured but wonderfully refined wine, with a light touch to its slowly mounting, highly complex flavors of dark fruits, spices, minerals, tobacco and spices. A wine of great finesse, finishing with superb tannins and outstanding lift. This wine has been a knockout from the outset. Reviewed by Stephen Tanzer, Issue date: May 2009. Drinking window: N/A.